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Wineries aren’t always what you think

by Farley

A month or so ago, I went to Napa to hang out at a friend’s house. I’d been hinting at an invitation for a while, as his family is Italian with a huge garden, lots of traditional homecooked meals, and, ok, they make their own wine.

We decided to hit a couple of wineries. Since we were there. After first stocking the bubbly supply over at Mumm, we drove up the Silverado Trail and back down Highway 29. As we were passing the vast institution which is Beringer, it struck us that we might as well give it a go.

Now, Beringer may be best known by many for its white zin. Sad, because there is many a tasty (and often pricey) Cab Sauv to leave that production line. When we were there, I steered us directly to the reserve tasting room (ah, the perks of working in the business). The three of us each tried a different menu and shared. And while the Cabs were quite good, I left with a Pinot Noir in tow.

Tonight I opened the 2003 Beringer ‘Stanly Ranch’ Pinot Noir from Carneros. From the get go, the wine shouted fruit. The nose promised strawberry, with underlying vanilla and faint hints of roses. On the palate, the strawberry reappeared but more to the tune of a pie with rhubarb. At first taste, the alcohol seemed strong but after time balanced out and brought with it traces of light spice and dust.

As for pairings, it was one of those nights where you throw something together with no rhyme or reason (except to match the wine). The B of my BLT was lightened and brightened by the fruitiness of the wine. And while the smoked salmon on half a bagel almost overpowered the light-bodied wine, taking more sips allowed the wine to match the powerful taste.

Check out Beringer’s website, where, stop the presses, the tasting notes actually match some of mine.

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