Wine Outlook

What to drink? What to drink?

With the holidays around the corner, so come mountains of food and the fear of overly full stomachs and expanding waistlines.

Perhaps that is why so many people reach for Beaujolais Nouveau, a wine that is light, fruity, and easy to drink. Of course, the hype surrounding its release each year on the third Thursday of November could also add to its popularity.

Referred to as Beaujolais Primeur in France, the Gamay grape in this wine grows in the southern region of Burgundy, famous for Pinot Noir. The majority of Beaujolais develops as Nouveau, which undergoes a special fermentation that allows it to go from vine to bottle so quickly.

Because the process is hasty, the wine does not need to age. (Be sure to drink it by New Year’s Day or so.) Serve it at Thanksgiving dinner, as it makes a great pairing with the cranberries and yams or at holiday parties, as it also goes well with sausage, ham, and vegetable dishes. The acidity and light body are reminiscent of white wine, making this a good crossover for someone who usually shies away from red.

Warning: While Beaujolais Nouveau can be lovely, fresh, and fun, sometimes it can be a bit lackluster. The speedy fermentation process can lead to distinctive aromas of banana, bubble gum, and even nail-polish remover, which might not be dangerous but is hardly appealing. Thus, it happens with massively produced wines—the focus becomes the sale instead of the product.

Solution: Either stick to solid producers (Louis Jadot) or seek out Beaujolais-Villages, which will be a step up due to the more specific classification. And at the top of the ladder sits Cru Beaujolais, found in only ten villages, including Brouilly, Fleurie, Morgon, and Moulin-a-Vent (considered by many to be superlative). They will be more complex, with greater variance in body and taste.

Another recommendation for Thanksgiving is Pinot Noir, the ever food-friendly choice. Always versatile, it will enhance the turkey, especially if smoked, and any mushroom dish on the table. And if you decide to go out on a limb and serve duck instead (or as well), welcome to the perfect union. I find the only problem with Pinot Noir to be my credit card limit. Here are some budget choices that are usually consistent: Beringer Founders’ Estate and from Oregon–Duck Pond and Firesteed. For those without such concerns, try Archery Summit, Etude, or Morgan.

An experiment:I’ve heard several people talk about Gewurztraminer with their turkey dinner. I have my doubts, but I do plan to give it a whirl, aiming for side dish companionship. Maybe the spiciness won’t overpower them. This might be more of a success if you kick it up a notch and fry your bird. I think it goes without saying that I recommend the Thomas Fogarty, but also look for Navarro, Gundlach Bundshu, or Hugel.

Then again, it is the most joyful time of the year. Drink whatever makes you happy.

Thanksgiving, turkey pairing