Wine Outlook

For Wine Blogging Wednesday #29: Thanks to Fork & Bottle for hosting.

Not too long ago, our winemaker asked me to help him with a letter to his Martella club members, concerning his attraction to biodynamic wines and decision to make more of them. So I read Hugh Courtney’s 40+ page introduction to What Is Biodynamics?: A Way to Heal and Revitalize the Earth : Seven Lectures to get an idea of the practice. While it’s often likened to organic farming, it goes much deeper than that.
In Courtney’s own words:
…the biodynamic attitude toward the Earth as a living being…traditional agriculture and even individual organic or chemical farmers may also have that attitude. While that may be true, the attitude in other forms of agriculture is confined to the realm of feeling, while the biodynamic farmer puts his feelings specifically into actual physical world practice through the use of the biodynamic preparations.

Well, those preparations might make some people shiver just a bit. Ingredients for the nine preparations range from rather basic chamomile,yarrow, and cow manure to the more out-there vessels for holding them: cow horns, a stag’s bladder, and the fresh skull of a domestic animal. However, the use of these preparations has been known to help make for an earlier harvest, increase topsoil, and provide relief in drought conditions.

And as long as I don’t think too much about the how of it, I can appreciate the why, as well as the results.

Since Michael Martella inspired my interest in the first place, I’ll review the 2003 Martella Mendocino ‘Fairbairn Ranch’ Syrah first. It’s made with Demeter-certified grapes that come from a vineyard owned by Joe and Julie Golden, including 5% Petite Syrah. I love this wine because it’s always changing. Sometimes I get black pepper, raspberry, and plum. Later I might get a little tobacco and cedar. Then another time I’ll find licorice and tea. Whatever flavors jump out, the strong tannins are consistent– making this one that you want to drink half the first night and save the rest for later–to see what else you can find.

Michael also pointed me towards the 2005 CeAgo ‘Kathleen’s Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc from Lake County. This one was a little reluctant at first to give me much on the nose, until I caught a bit of citrus and flowers. When I first tasted it, the slight effervescence tickled my tongue then made way for lime, stone, and menthol. I thought there might have been a little oak, which I don’t usually like in a Sauv Blanc, and when I read the notes online, I found that 15% had been put in new barrels for 2 months. Enough to notice but not enough to make me mad.

I can’t wait to read the other entries for WBW #29 because I like what I’ve had of biodynamic wines so far.

….Farley Walker

Wine Blogging Wednesday #29, 2003 Martella Mendocino ‘Fairbairn Ranch’ Syrah, 2005 CeAgo ‘Kathleen’s Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc