Wine Outlook

My tasting group was not the most organized affair this time. At the last meeting we chose a theme but never really decided on a date. Therefore, after throwing an e-mail out last week, only a few people followed through and we ended up changing it from Thursday to Monday. With the last-minute assignment and a not-so-common variety (Chenin Blanc), there was a bit of stress for some in finding a bottle. We still managed to survey seven different bottles: three from France and four from California.

Chenin Blanc is quite versatile, capable of extreme sweetness, sparkling versions, or fair-to-mediocre table wine. It has a long history in the Loire Valley, where it can sometimes have too much acidity, depending on ripeness. It seems the best versions there are sweet, with hints of honey and damp straw. The grape has gained great popularity in South Africa, sometimes referred to as Steen. Winemakers are striving to avoid that mediocrity that seems to come too easily to the grape. California also grows its fair share of Chenin Blanc, where it’s usually relegated to blends. Very few producers give it much attention, but Clarksburg seems to be one area that provides some interesting versions.

We didn’t do a tally, but I think I may have brought the winner this time, making up for my less-than-stellar contributions at the past few. Mine was a 2005 Francois Pinon Vouvray Cuvee Traditional. At $15, it smelled of honeysuckle, tangerine, and orange blossoms, with some minerality and light orange on the palate. My other favorite was a CA selection: the 2005 Dry Creek Chenin Blanc from Clarksburg. Only $9, this one had petrol on the nose for me and white pepper on the crisp palate. Very different from the 2006 Dry Creek Chenin Blanc we also tasted, which was more reminiscent of a Sauvignon Blanc with its grapefruit, stone, and grassy notes. This one was $16 and rounder than I would have expected.

I was excited before trying the NV sparkling Vouvray from Champalon. This one was a little disappointing, however, with too many bubbles to get much on the palate. It reminded me of soda water initially and became more citrus and chalk on the finish. The other Vouvray was much sweeter than the Pinon. It was a 2005 Francoise Chidaine Le Bouchet. It was obvious from its golden color that it would have a fair amount of sugar, which it did (botrytis affected, perhaps) along with honey and orange.

We also sampled a 2005 Vinum Chard-no-way, which was surprisingly barrel fermented in French oak and a little too warm to appreciate and an off bottle of Bonny Doon Pacific Rim Chenin Blanc which smelled of eggs and canned dog food.

This was definitely educational for me, as I haven’t had that much Chenin Blanc in the past. The problem for me may come from the great range in styles, making it hard to know what you’re getting, which makes pairing with food that much harder….

….Farley Walker

Chenin Blanc, 2005 Francois Pinon Vouvray Cuvee Traditional, 2005 Dry Creek Chenin Blanc, 2005 Francoise Chidaine Le Bouchet